Is My Dog Overweight?

Is your dog overweight?

If your answer is "no",  are you sure? 

Only 22% of owners believe their own pets to be overweight. 

But in reality, a 2011 study showed that 53% of dogs are overweight.

This means that 31% of owners are in denial about their dog being overweight...


I, for one, was sure that my Springer Spaniel Wallace was NOT overweight and was simply "big-boned".  This was despite the fact that Beth (my gf and Wallace's mom), my sister and some of my friends told me that my boy needed to lose weight. I found this all to be quite offensive and was quick to jump to poor Wallace's defense.  I deflected their comments by saying that our vet didn't say Wallace was overweight, that Wallace eats a high quality food so he couldn't possibly be overweight and that Wallace probably just looks to be on the heavy side since he needed a haircut.

Don't you dare call my fur baby fat!

Eventually it was Beth's turn to take the pets to the vet for their check-up.  She, of course, asked the vet point blank if Wallace needed to lose weight. It turned out he did.  It also turned out that I am part of the 31% of owners in dog obesity denial!

Just one more treat???

In addition to speaking with your vet, here are a few ways for you to tell if your dog is a healthy weight:

1) Your dog's weight vs. their breed's ideal weight - The rule of thumb is that if your dog is more than 15% above its breed's ideal weight (which can be found here) it is considered to be obese. (Wallace is 16% above the high-end of the Springer range).

2) Can you feel their ribs? - You can also check by feeling for your dog's ribs and spine. You should be able to locate both with only a thin layer of fat separating the skin and bones.  If you have to press harder or dig deeper, you may have an overweight dog.

3) Eyeball it - You may recognize the chart below from your vet's office. It can be very useful to help decide if your dog is a healthy weight. (This chart also classifies Wallace as heavy)

What can I do? 

Along with exercise, exercise and more exercise, controlling your dog's food portions and the amount and type of treats they get are the main factors that will help you get your dog back down to a healthy weight.  If you do an honest assessment of how much your dogs eats in a day (not just meals, but extras like treats, scraps from the kitchen, treats from others) you may find that simply cutting out the extras can be the difference. 

As for meal time, a feeding guide can be found on any bag of dry food.  Once you have a target weight for your dog, find the lowest amount for that weight range and measure carefully. We now use a measuring cup as Wallace's food scoop. 

Keeping your dog's weight in check is critical. As with humans, an overweight dog is more susceptible to a wide range of health issues including joint issues, trouble breathing, high blood pressure, diabetes, reduction in life span and skin conditions.  Next time you bring your dog to the vet be sure to ask if he or she is a healthy weight.

- Peter

Show Grooms vs. Pet Grooms

Perhaps earlier this year you were able to catch the Westminster Kennel Club's annual Dog Show, held in New York's Madison Square Garden.  It is without a doubt the granddaddy of all dog shows, and for me, it is a pleasure to watch.  Along with the fun of seeing all those dogs walking around and strutting their stuff, it is also interesting for me to see all the ways that these dogs are groomed in their show style grooms which are quite different from the typical pet style grooms we see on most dogs.

For example, take a look at what a Shih-Tzu looks like in a show groom next to a typical family pet's style...

Show Groom

Pet Groom

As you can see, they almost look like two different breeds of dog.

Take a look at these two Standard Poodles...

Show Groom

Pet Groom

Notice the similarities between the clips performed on these two poodles; their faces and feet are both clipped short. 

Here's another example, the Miniature Schnauzer,  one of my favourite breeds of small dogs...

Show Groom

Pet Groom

The first dog is in the proper breed style with a short clipped back and head, legs scissored into columns and the face and eyebrows trimmed into the Schnauzer's hallmark look.  The second is a bit different, as he still has the beard, brows and short clipped back, but his legs are trimmed shorter and the skirt is just a little bit longer than the back.  The pattern is the same but the second dog's owners will have much less brushing and combing to do, as Schnauzer's fine coats tangle and mat quite easily.

And since we all love dog pictures here is one final example...

Show Groom

Pet Groom

The dog on the left is a Springer Spaniel in full show style.  He has a robust plume on his chest and his ears are long and tassled.  His skirt and featherings are trimmed but left long while his back and head are clipped quite short fading into his longer furnishings.  The handsome devil on the right is my boy Wallace, clipped short on the head and back using the same clip pattern fading into his longer furnishings on his chest and belly.  As you can see they are trimmed shorter on his underside and legs for easier maintenance.  Wallace loves to get outside and explore and it's not unusual to find burrs and other bits of nature in his coat.  Keeping his skirt and furnishings shorter makes it much easier to find and get rid of these things without too much trouble.  His ears are also tassled, which the picture doesn't illustrate very well, but they are not quite as long as the dog on the left, again for easier maintenance and so they don't dip into his water bowl when he's thirsty.  

I'm sure you are noticing a pattern by now.  Pet style grooms are keeping in the spirit of the breed standard clip while altering it slightly (usually by going shorter in spots) for functionality and ease of upkeep.  Neither show grooms nor pet grooms is right or wrong.  It is up to each owner to decide what grooming style suits their lifestyle and personal preferences.  

Here are some things to consider when deciding how to groom your pet:

Budget

For starters, as you might have guessed, show grooms require a groomer with a great deal of skill and experience.  However, "pet grooming" is the service provided by most commercial dog groomers. There are far less groomers with the ability to execute show grooms and as such you can expect to pay more for these services.  

Maintenance

Unfortunately, the problem with many show grooms (take the Shih-Tzu for example) is practicality. A dog with a show groom will require a great deal of upkeep and maintenance.  This includes not just regular brushing and combing, but more frequent bathing and clipping to maintain their look.  If you've got the dedication and time to handle a hairstyle such as this, your reward will be a beautiful and lustrous coat for your dog that will no doubt turn heads wherever he or she goes!  

Lifestyle

The rambunctious and playful nature of a family pet's day will lead their coats to becoming dirty and tangled. In addition, the elements, water in particular, can wreak havoc on a dog's coat as constantly getting wet and drying will further tangle and mat the coat.  All in all, the typical family lifestyle is generally not suited to show grooms.  

What about mixed breed dogs?

Another thing to keep in mind is that when it comes to mixed breeds, pet grooming is almost always the way to go as there is no defined 'breed clip'.  Dogs like the golden doodles below can be groomed in almost any fashion to suit their owners' tastes and needs.  Just take a look at the differences in the clips on these two.

Remember, there is no 'right' or 'wrong' way for your dog to look.  Your dog is a part of your family and you are the one who decides what they look like.

-Peter

Getting Ready for Spring: Shedding

It's that time of year again...

When your vaccum is ready to quit...

When your home feels like the wild west with all the fur tumbleweeds drifting through it...

When you can't sit on your furniture without putting a fur sweater on...

That's right. It's shedding season (commonly referred to by non-pet owners as Spring).

Before I get into how to reduce shedding I would like to start with how NOT to reduce it...

DO NOT SHAVE your double, or triple coated dog.  While shaving your dog will help to reduce the amount of fur flying around your home, there are other solutions that are much healthier for your pet.  

I will NOT shave your husky!

The issue with shaving a double-coated dog is that their coats act as a natural layer of insulation, both against heat and cold.  During summer a heavy coat will actually guard them against the heat from the sun's rays and keep their bodies cooler.  In addition, if shaved,  their skin will be exposed to the sun and they become more susceptible to sunburns. Instead, help thin the coat out,  I often clip back the hair on the bellies to  offer relief during the summer months.  For more information on the myths of shaving double-coated dogs, check this article out.

So what to do??

Regular brushing is the best thing you can do to get rid of the fur by speeding up the shedding cycle (in a healthy way).  Brushing will allow you to get that coat out on your own terms instead of waiting to find it in patches on the couch. 

One of the most popular and effective de-shedding product lines is made by Furminator.  This is a fantastic line of tools as well as shampoos and conditioners that work very effectively to lift the undercoat from your dog.

Furminator tools (brushes) are more expensive than your typical pin or curry brush, but everyone I know that has one stands by them -- and with good reason. Furminator tools dramatically cut down the amount of time spent brushing when compared to a typical brush.  They come in different sizes and models so you can select one that is best suited to your dog's breed.

Notice the ends of the brushes?  They are designed to actually grab the fur from your dog's coat, rather than simply pass through it.

Bathing your dog regularly will also help to reduce shedding. If you use a de-shedding solution/conditioner during the bath you will find the Furminator brush will work even better since the fur will be loosened before attempting to brush.

While bathing and brushing are the most obvious fixes to shedding you may also want to consider what food you are feeding your dog.  Low quality foods may actually increase the amount your dog sheds while a high quality food can help to reduce it.

Are you sure this is normal?

Finally, if the amount of shedding is abnormal for your dog's breed consider taking them to the vet to ensure that is is not due to a medical problem. According to the ASPCA,  it's time to see your vet when there is evidence of:

• Skin irritation (redness, bumps, rashes, scabs etc...)
• Open sores of any kind
• Bald spots or thinning of coat
• Dull, dry hair that pulls out easily
• Scratching
• Constant foot licking or face rubbing

I hope you've found my de-shedding tips helpful!



-Peter

Keeping Your Dog's Coat Beautiful: Food

In an earlier post about keeping your dog's coat beautiful, I said that brushing was the #1 most important thing you can do.  This post will focus on the other thing that is tied for 1st place;  feeding your dog a high quality food.

As many of my close friends can attest to, I bring up the topic of dog food pretty often... To be honest, I'm a little obsessed with what people feed their pets.  This is because as a groomer I see first hand the health benefits that feeding your dog a high quality food can make.

High quality foods have sufficient nutrients, including essential fatty acids to maintain a healthy, shiny coat.  On the other hand, a dog that has flaky skin and a dull, sparse coat may not be getting these essential nutrients that are part of a balanced diet.

Another contributor to skin and coat issues, as well as chronic ear infections, are food allergies.  These can unfortunately often be attributed to the most common ingredients in dog food; beef, dairy, chicken, lamb, fish, eggs, corn, wheat and soy.  In order to help your dog overcome allergies they should be eating a food that either has limited ingredients (to identify/avoid the allergen), novel ingredients (ie ingredients that are not included in the list of common ingredients dogs are allergic to) or is hypoallergenic.  Low quality foods will not have any of these characteristics and thus are far more likely to aggravate allergies.

Other signs that your dog may be on the wrong food are outlined in this Pet MD slide show.  If your dog is having medical issues always ask your vet if a change in diet could help.

While most dog owners will acknowledge that putting their dog on a great food is important, sometimes that is easier said than done.  Two generations ago dogs were fed table scraps and leftovers from human food. It wasn't until the 1950s that the pet food industry started down the path of becoming highly commercialized.

Today, we are so inundated with advertising that it is difficult for the average consumer to separate high quality foods from low quality foods with good marketing campaigns. We are made to feel that only the priciest foods provide adequate nutritional value for our pets - or conversely, that the priciest foods aren't worth it since the lower quality foods advertise the same benefits.

The packaging doesn't help to make food selection easier nor do the ingredients that are almost impossible to decipher.

For example, here is the packaging of a low quality dog food

This food could be classified as a mid-quality dry food 

And now take a look at the packaging of this high quality food...

Did you notice that the packaging of all three of these foods featured pictures of at least one happy dog, carrots and meat?

Along with many others, I found myself duped by dog food marketing when I first brought home Wallace.  When picking the best food at the pet store I assumed that the mid-priced foods would offer the best value and be comparable in quality to one another. It wasn't until I found the site Dog Food Advisor that  I realized this was not so.

I initially fed Wallace what I thought was a reasonably high quality, grain free, food. Once I looked it up on the site I realized it was a decent quality food but I could buy another much better food for the exact same price.  This brings me to my next point.  For many dog owners the cost of food is a major consideration when choosing a food. A little research can help to ensure your are getting the most nutritional bang for your buck.

Whenever the topic of dog food comes up I always recommend checking in with Dog Food Advisor. Dog Food Advisor provides reviews and ratings for over 3,300 varieties of wet, dry and raw dog foods. It's pretty interesting when you take the time and browse through some of their reviews.  Their method of evaluating the food is straight forward and thourough; they go through every ingredient listed, define it, list its characteristics be them positive or negative, and give a final overall rating ranging from 1-star to 5-star.  By and large, the lower ranked foods have more fillers and less nutritious grains and cuts of meat, whereas the higher ranked foods are for the most part free of grains and fillers, opting for more natural and easily digestible options.

There are countless other ways that a good dog food will help your dog's long term health.  Research the food you are feeding your pet to make sure you are getting the best value for your money. A well fed dog is a happy (and pretty) dog!

-Peter

Getting Ready for Spring: Fleas

It's one of those dirty words that makes you (and your dog) itch just thinking about it; fleas.  Perhaps the greatest fear of pet owners during the spring and summer months, fleas are external parasites that live off of hitching a ride onto a mammal (not just dogs and cats), biting their skin and sucking their blood.  These tiny vampires are very small, about the size of a sesame seed, so they can be very difficult to detect on your pet until a full blown infestation is underway.

                                 

How can I spot fleas?
During our first spring with Wallace, we noticed him scratching himself more than usual, and upon inspection, we noticed his armpits and belly looked a bit dirty. It turns out this was flea dirt.   Generally the most tell-tale sign that your dog has fleas are deposits of flea dirt rather than the actual fleas. Flea dirt is dried blood that the fleas have passed through their body -- Basically, it's flea poop. The fleas and flea dirt can most commonly be found hiding in the armpits and between the hind legs.  Fleas can be especially tricky to spot on darker coloured dogs since the dirt and fleas tend to blend in.

Flea dirt is usually the easiest way to detect fleas on your pet.

Where do fleas come from?  
One of the most frustrating things about being a groomer is hearing from a client "my dog got fleas from your shop!"  This is not impossible (that is to say, nothing is impossible) but it is extremely unlikely. Good groomers will take precautions to make sure that all fleas found on a dog in their care are immediately eradicated and the shop is properly cleaned and sprayed with insecticide.

In reality, fleas prefer warm, humid habitats such as sandy areas, crawl spaces under houses and gardens or under leafy vegetation.  As such, the most common way for fleas to get onto your pet is from out in nature....  This has become increasingly true in recent years as the use of pesticides is becoming more and more rare, due their being outlawed in many regions.

So no, your dog has probably not gotten fleas from other dogs at the groomer's but likely picked them up in your own backyard! 

Fleas live out in your yard, so make sure you're protecting your furry friends from them!

I found fleas! What do I do?
The first thing to remember is to not panic and the second is to call your vet.

When we first found the fleas on Wallace we immediately ran out to the pet store and bought a shampoo to give him a bath and went about vacuuming every inch of carpet and upholstery in our house every day for a week straight, sprayed insecticide all over and took all of the towels, bedding and curtains to the laundromat. Our house was very clean, but the fleas were still there and Wallace was still scratching...

If only we'd spoken to our vet!  It turns out that although Wallace was on a flea prevention program, our indoor kitten, Bridget, was not, and should have been. After Wallace brought the fleas into the house they would hop onto her and multiply. 

After speaking with the vet we decided to keep Wallace's flea treatment the same and start Bridget on a program as well.  Wallace is on a product called Trifexis which is a pill he takes once a month.  It's very effective as it not only kills adult fleas that try to feed on his blood, but also sterilizes them so they cannot ley eggs either. We also like that it's made in Canada.  We use a different product for Bridget called Advantage that is a topical application.  Generally cats get topical "spot-on" products since getting a cat to take a pill is not fun.

Again, consult with your vet  before using any flea treatment; these products are intravenous, meaning they are absorbed into the bloodstream, and some products sold in stores (Zodiac, Frontline) may have severe side effects.  

Getting Rid of Fleas - Step by Step

1. Call your vet. Book an appointment to put all indoor and outdoor animals on flea prevention programs.
2. Put your dog's bed, blanket and fabric toys in the wash.
3. Give your dog a bath with medicated flea and tick shampoo for immediate relief (or send them to the groomer to do it).
4. Vacuum your home paying special attention to corners, behind curtains and by the baseboards.
5. If your dog spends a lot of time in the backyard consider treating the leafy shrubs with insecticide as well.  There are specialty sprays available at pet stores.

Keep your pets free from fleas this summer with a preventative treatment from your vet!

Fleas are a very common pest that can cause agony for your pets by making them itch horribly.  To make matters worse, incessant scratching and licking often leads to skin irritation and infection.  Make sure you nip this problem in the bud and get your dogs (and cats) on a prevention program from your vet from spring through fall to keep them healthy and happy!

-Peter

                                          

Getting Ready for Spring: Skunks

            It's the worst nightmare of every pet owner, that foul stench that sticks to everything your dog touches; the dreaded skunk spray.  

            Skunks naturally seek shelter, which means that the easiest place for them to find a home is in and around your yard; under decks, sheds and porches.   Making matters worse, skunks are scavengers, and are attracted to the scent of your delicious garbage cans and the feast inside - giving them yet another reason to visit your property. 

            Most animals in the wild will be warded off by skunks colouration and smell.  Of course, dogs have lost this instinct in their urban environment and will go after a skunk with abandon.  

          When a skunk senses danger (such as your dog chasing after them) they will emit their spray with accuracy up to 10 feet away. Not only is the smell highly offensive, it can temporarily blind another animal if it gets directly in their eyes.  

A skunk's spray in action. 

Unfortunately for pet owners in the 'Forest City' it is not a matter of if your dog will be sprayed but when.   So what can do you do once it happens?  

When it comes to a skunk spray the most important thing is actually what NOT to do. You should NOT quickly give your dog a bath.  A skunk's spray is an oil-based secretion and giving them a bath with their regular shampoo will only open the pores and allow the spray to be absorbed into their skin --  Basically ensuring that the smell will stick to your dog even worse than it would have in the first place! 

So what to do? Like most things in life, a little preparation goes a long way.  There is unfortunately no way to eliminate the smell entirely, but by using an appropriate product you will be able to minimize the effect the smell has on your pet, your home and your own body. 

Ideally you will take your dog to the groomer so your dog does not have to be de-skunked in your own home. However, dogs seem to have a knack for getting sprayed at 3 AM when everything is closed.  This is why I strongly advise all of my clients to keep a bottle of  a product called Nature’s Miracle  at home.  It works like nothing else I have seen before and is available at most major pet stores.  

If you do not have a bottle of this and you happen to be reading this at 3 AM with a skunked dog beside you, there is a good home remedy you can turn to.  Everyone has heard of using tomato juice, don't bother with this one. In my experience tomato juice mostly leaves your dog and house smelling like tomatoes and skunk. This hydrogen peroxide/baking soda/dish detergent recipe can be used instead.

Unfortunately, even after effectively washing your dog it is still very likely that you will be able to smell the skunk odour for several months, most notably when they get wet.

 So far I’ve been lucky and Wallace (my springer spaniel) hasn't been sprayed. Now if my luck only holds for another ten to twelve years we should be just fine - otherwise I've got a bottle of Nature's Miracle stashed away.

-Peter

Keeping Your Dog's Coat Beautiful: Brushing

Brushing is one of, if not the, most important thing you can do to help your dog's coat and skin stay shiny and beautiful. Brushing helps to prevent matting which can be uncomfortable, and even dangerous to your dog's health.

Many pet parents do not realize the severity of mats. Often, a  will matted dog will be brought in for "just a trim" and it will end up having to be shaved.  Asking your groomer to brush out mats is like asking a hairdresser to brush out dreadlocks. It just isn't going to happen without causing an unnecessary amount of pain to your pet.

Aesthetics aside, matting is extremely uncomfortable for your dog. Imagine grabbing a clump of your own hair, twisting it taught then yanking. Ouch!

In addition to being uncomfortable, the biggest concern with mats comes when they proliferate and whole patches form on their body, concealing other issues.  Matting can also trap moisture, dirt and bacteria which can lead to infections and sores.  It’s very easy for fleas and other pests to hide under a matted coat, leading to even more discomfort for your furry friend.  Here is a great article with information on why paying attention to your dog’s coat (and not just for matting) is a great way to keep and eye on their overall health

Finally, shaving a dog with mats is dangerous.  As the mats are pulled tight to the skin, there is the chance that the groomer’s clipper can snag skin that has been pulled up by the matted fur.  This is, of course, something every groomer takes precautions to avoid, but unfortunately accidents do happen.  

Needless to say, it’s in your pet’s best interest to keep a close watch of their coat for matting.   For most dogs, matting is easy to prevent, a quick brush all over (don’t forget the legs!) once or twice a week and they’ll be fine.  Other dogs' coats are a little higher maintenance and may need daily brushing.  It's important to make sure that you're using the best brush for your dog's coat type; for help with this click here. And this is a basic brushing tutorial. 

There's no better time of year to give your dog's coat a fresh start than spring.  Many dogs are clipped short in the spring and summer to keep them cool anyway, so your dog will blend right in!

  

- Peter 

My Best Friend Wallace

Animal lovers understand all the wonderful ways our pets touch our lives. We develop a meaningful bond with our pets that lasts long after they've gone.

I didn't know what I wanted to be "when I grew up" until Wallace came into my life. Caring for Wallace is what opened my eyes to the fact that my enjoyment of dogs was something that could be turned into a career.

Working with dogs every day as a groomer has only cultivated my love for them.  In fact, I'd go as far  as to say that caring for dogs has become my full-blown passion. I am one of the lucky few people who look forward to going to work when they get up in the morning. 

So thank you Wallace, for helping me to find my path and walking alongside me as I go down it.

This blog is dedicated to you buddy.

- Peter

Puppy's First Groom

Grooming puppies (dogs under 6 months) can be one of the most enjoyable parts of a groomer’s job. Sometimes it seems almost unfair that I’m paid to play work with a puppy that is happy, cooperative and playful -- Then there are the other times that they are frightened, overwhelmed and aggressive.

When a puppy is first being groomed it is best to keep the grooming short and easy. It’s more important to make a puppy’s first few grooms a positive experience than it is to get an extensive groom completed.

You can help to ensure your puppy’s first groom goes well by regularly brushing them and playing with their paws at home. This will to help to get them used to being manipulated.   

It’s also important to resist spoiling your puppy (I was guilty of this too, don’t worry). Puppies that aren’t told “no” at home take longer to submit to brushing, having their nails clipped or their chins held. Puppies need to learn when they are young, as with children, that acting up and crying will not get them their way. 

When puppies are frightened they will generally act in one of two ways; scared stiff and fairly acquiescent or defiant and aggressive… You can guess which my preference is.

Frightened puppies usually just need a little positive encouragement.  I always try to keep the real work to short spurts followed by a few cuddles and belly rubs to make them a little more comfortable.  Once they know that they are with someone who will reward them for good behaviour (with treats, positive encouragement and scratches behind their ears) they usually relax.

Groomers need to find the balance between being firm with the puppies and knowing when a frightened puppy simply needs to be comforted.  One of my most challenging puppies to groom to date was on my own Chinese Crested, Billie.  Some Chinese Crested dogs need to have their body and face closely shaved. This can be scary for them, however also dangerous if they squirm too much.

Billie would shriek and howl and make all sorts of awful noises when I first started grooming her.  The most important thing was to show her that, in spite of her protestations, I would not stop what I was doing and that she was not going to win.   However, understanding that she was scared, I also kept the grooms as short as possible and showered her with treats. 

After two or three grooms with mixed behaviour, Billie began sitting still and being very cooperative for the process because she knew that nothing bad was going to happen -- that she wasn’t going to be hurt and there was nothing to be afraid of.   Now at eight months, she is very comfortable being groomed, and the main interruptions occur when she tries to jump up to kiss me.

A puppy’s first groom can sometimes be hardest on the groomer who has to be firm while being looked at with, literally, puppy dog eyes.  Help your puppy (and their groomer) through their first grooms by booking short, simple appointments, playing with their paws and ears at home when relaxing, and as always, working on their obedience training to help them grow into healthy, happy dogs!

- Peter